林语堂念念不忘的水果，闽南人中秋必吃
李雪晴约 7 分钟即便是在地域色彩已经足够浓厚的闽南，漳州也是独树一帜的存在。漳州饮食保留了极浓郁的市井气和古早味：锅边糊、卤面、四果汤……烟火味十足，价格也亲民。
在漳州的山野间，散落着 1000多座土楼，其中20余座是世界文化遗产，著名的“四菜一汤”田螺坑土楼就在这里。
Even within southern Fujian, a region already known for its strong local character, Zhangzhou stands out as distinctly its own. The city's cuisine retains a rich, down-to-earth flavor and a strong sense of nostalgia.
Scattered across Zhangzhou's mountains and countryside are more than 1,000 tulou, or earthen buildings, over 20 of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
漳州布袋木偶戏《雷万春打虎》
但像我这样常和一产打交道的美食记者，漳州令我印象最深的还是它丰富的农产品。
漳州平原是福建省最大的冲积平原，除去水仙，花卉就有1200多个品种。水果也有枇杷、杨梅、龙眼、凤梨、香蕉、芦柑等47种，330多个品种。
乘车走过田间，两边的香蕉树颇有南国之风情，国学大师林语堂的故居旁，是一片蔚为壮观的“香蕉海”。
但如果你和我一样，在中秋前后来到这里，你会发现，无论是田间地头，烟火祠堂，还是小巷人家，仿佛都被一种水果所围绕，那便是柚子。
The Zhangzhou Plain is Fujian's largest alluvial plain, home to 47 kinds of fruit, with more than 330 varieties in total.
Banana trees line the fields, creating a tropical feel, and beside Lin Yutang's former residence lies a vast "banana sea". Yet around the Mid-Autumn Festival, everything — fields, ancestral halls, alleyways — seems wrapped around one fruit: the pomelo.
在林语堂故乡，掉进柚子之海
In early September, Pinghe seems to become a sea of pomelos. Warehouses along the roadside are piled high with them like small hills, and every truck on the road is loaded full of golden, glossy pomelos.
在林语堂浩如烟海的著作中，对坂仔欢乐的童年生涯着墨不少。他曾说：“如果我有一些健全的观念和简朴的思想，那完全是得之于闽南坂仔之秀美的山陵，因为我相信我仍然是用一个简朴的农家子的眼睛来观看人生。”
甘才上身光光的，一件灰外衣挂在肩膀上。他棕色的肌肉灵活健康，黑黑的皮肤有一层闪亮的光泽，简直像一颗成熟的柚子，每一个毛孔都光润清爽。
Gan Cai had nothing on his upper body, a gray jacket slung over one shoulder. His brown muscles were nimble and healthy, and his dark skin had a gleaming luster — like a ripe pomelo, every pore smooth and fresh.
In Banzai town, you rarely see pomelos sold on the street — almost every household has them, if not grown by themselves, then by relatives.
During pomelo season, migrant workers return to harvest. People carry bags of pomelos as gifts, and all of Pinghe becomes a sea of pomelos, the air filled with their fragrance.
平和种植琯溪蜜柚最早可追溯到明嘉靖年间，至今已有500多年历史。
在福建，柚子又叫“抛”。清代文人施鸿保将柚子拟人的评价流传甚广，他称“荔支为美人，福橘为名士，若平和抛则侠客也”（“荔支”，即荔枝）。
意指其清香味佳，但外表粗犷，不以娇好的外貌取悦于人。
In Fujian, the pomelo is also called "pao". The Qing scholar Shi Hongbao's personified appraisal is widely quoted: "Lychee is a beauty, Fujian orange a scholar, but Pinghe pao is a knight-errant" — meaning its fragrance is fine though its appearance is rough, never seeking to please with delicate looks.
平和的红壤土富含硒元素，山泉水灌溉，造就了琯溪蜜柚酸甜水润的美味。琯溪蜜柚也是以平和一中旁边的溪水“琯溪”来命名的。
过去琯溪蜜柚只有白色。想想90后小时候吃的柚子，好像都是白的。直到1998年，琯溪蜜柚园发现了变异株系，后来嫁接培育出红肉蜜柚。因富含维生素A、β-胡萝卜素和番茄红素，果肉呈红色。
再后来又培育出果皮黄中带粉、柚绵和果肉都是红色的三红柚，样子喜庆，甜度也高。
所以现在想吃到白柚反而是不易了。
Guanxi honey pomelos used to be only white. Then in 1998, a mutated strain was found in a Pinghe orchard, later grafted into red-fleshed pomelos, their red pulp rich in vitamin A, beta-carotene and lycopene.
Later came the "three-red" pomelo — pink-tinged yellow peel with red pith and flesh — festive in looks and extra sweet.
Picking a pomelo is a bit like picking an orange — locals check the "navel", and a sunken one usually means more juice and sweetness. Freshly picked pomelos are left to rest, a process called "ci shui". Once the skin softens, they're easier to peel, and the flesh tastes sweeter.
闽台中秋佳果，天涯共此时
柚子是闽台中秋重要的文化符号，重要性好比新年的潮州柑之于潮汕。
我到台湾做交换学生的时候刚好过了一个中秋，台湾同学们一面组织烤肉，一面分发柚子，每人一颗。烤肉、食柚也是台湾的习俗。
柚子成熟的时机在中秋节前，是正当季的水果，它的酸甜之味还能化解吃月饼或肉食带来的油腻感，且外形浑圆象征团圆之意。
Pomelos ripen just before the Mid-Autumn Festival, making them a fruit in peak season. Their sweet-and-tart flavor cuts through the greasiness of mooncakes and rich meat dishes, while their round shape symbolizes reunion.
在漳州玉尊宫，很多来拜拜的闽南人都带着柚子。当地人告诉我：
“求什么就拜什么啦，火龙果是红红火火，苹果是平平安安，中秋一定要带柚子，求个圆圆满满、团团圆圆。”因此，据说也是少有人拜拜用梨子的。
对于中秋吃柚子的起源，除了正当季、解油腻、象征团圆，还有几种说法。
一说是柚子发音与“游子”相似。如果远在他乡，游子也会在这天通过吃柚子，抒发思乡情怀。
也有人觉得，柚子与“佑子”同音，蕴含保佑子孙的吉祥意义，欢庆佳节之余，也讨了个“彩头”。因此会在中秋节吃柚子，以祈求家人平安。
There are several other explanations for eating pomelos at Mid-Autumn. One is that "pomelo" (yòuzi) sounds like "wanderer" (yóuzi); those far from home eat them to express homesickness. Another is that it sounds like "blessing children" (yòuzi), carrying the auspicious meaning of protecting descendants, so families eat them to pray for safety.
“海上生明月，天涯共此时。”
中秋已至，游子归乡，阖家团圆。一颗金黄饱满，团团相抱的柚子，装得下中国人中秋的思念与情感。
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