在北京修长城是怎样的体验？工匠：乡亲们听了都很羡慕！

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双语君2024年08月12日约 9 分钟

这是一条骡子走的上山路。

每次背上十五六块长城砖，约重150到300斤不等，需要有人在背后一直抽打它的脊背，才能让吃苦耐劳的骡子情愿走这样陡峭的山路。

这也是一条修缮箭扣长城的工匠要走的路。

从北京怀柔去雁栖镇西栅子村脚下，往山上走，带一天的干粮，从早上修到下午，收工回家。工匠大多来自河北承德，有在大山里长大的经历，才能承受住爬升400米，往返6公里的“上班路”。

图源：中国日报记者邹红

长城，总长度约为两万一千米，作为中国古代文化的象征，人类智慧的见证，每年夏天都会吸引成千上万的国际游客前往北京，人们渴望攀登长城，惊叹于它的宏伟。

Work on the Jiankou section of the Great Wall takes a new approach to restoring its former beauty.
The Great Wall of China, which runs for more than 21,000 kilometers along the country's northern frontier, stands as a testament to human ingenuity. Each summer, it draws thousands of international visitors to Beijing who are eager to scale the wall and marvel at its grandeur.

和大众较为熟悉的八达岭长城、慕田峪长城不同，北京怀柔区的箭扣长城，是令无数徒步爱好者心驰神往的“野长城”，打卡了垂直程度接近八十度的“鹰飞倒仰”，就可以被称作徒步圈“王者”般的存在，但魅力背后潜藏着危险。

Yet, popular and well-maintained sections like Badaling and Mutianyu represent but a small portion of the structure. Rugged terrain and isolation have left other stretches dubbed "wild walls" in disrepair. This particularly applies to the Jiankou Great Wall, which despite climbing bans, still lures the intrepid.

5月18日，3名大学生夜爬未开放的箭扣野长城后露营夜宿。翌日清晨，3人被雷电击中，其中一人被击中后晕倒，伤势较重——作为非开放段长城，也是最危险的“野长城”，严禁游客私自上山攀爬，在修缮项目开启之前，“几乎每年都会出事”。

北京怀柔箭扣段长城东起牛角边（顶），西至九眼楼，全长7850米。自2016年起，中国文物保护基金会和腾讯基金会连续开展了四期保护修缮工程，总长度4520米。该项目也得到了北京市考古研究院和北京市怀柔区文化和旅游局的支持。

The Great Wall protection project launched in September 2016 by the China Foundation for Cultural Heritage Conservation and the Tencent Foundation aims to prevent further damage and preserve the Jiankou section for future generations. It is supported by the Beijing Municipal Cultural Heritage Bureau and Huairou district's cultural and tourism bureau.
There have been four restoration phases since 2016, with 4,520 meters of the 7,850-meter length tackled on this section of the Great Wall in Yanqi town, Beijing's Huairou district.

修缮前后对比图

2024年6月，第五期修缮项目开工，项目秉承“考古先行”的理念，于今年4 月进场开展考古工作，6月初设计交底、施工进场标志着项目将在保护修缮期间实现“边考古，边修缮”的无缝衔接，整个保护修缮工程计划2026年完工。

This year marks the start of the fifth phase, which will restore a further 915 meters, including six watchtowers and five side sections. Work is expected to be completed by November 2026 and, to date, two watchtowers have been examined by archaeologists.

中国日报记者徒步进山，跟着考古负责人、修缮工人、长城保护志愿者，伴着新鲜的骡子粪便、盛夏明媚的阳光、翠绿森林、嶙峋碎石，一起探索“我在北京修长城”的奥秘。

明代古长城里也有红色？

行进至上山路中段，北京市考古研究院副研究馆员、箭扣五期考古项目负责人尚珩健步如飞，“常跟着我的记者，也能走这么快。”

Shang Heng, an associate research fellow at the Beijing Archaeological Research Institute, contrasts this with past practices, which relied on ground observation and were often piecemeal, lacking a holistic strategy.

这条被碎石布满的上山路，已经是较为平坦的一段，松软的土地上残留着雨水的痕迹，散落着骡子脚印，在专业徒步者眼中，这几乎可以算作是“没有爬升”，但对普通人而言，上山路几乎会消耗全部体力。

考古作为修缮工程中的重要一环，在第五期项目中扮演着重要角色。这一项目实际上指的是“东起牛角边，西至正北楼”的长城段，全长 915 米，包含 6 座敌台、5 段边墙，考古学者秉承“保护原貌”的原则，主要做植被清理、出土文物发掘等工作，目前共出土文物约 100 余件套，包括建筑构件、守城武器、生活用品三大类。

尚珩提到：“这些发现有助于我们了解明朝士兵的生活，从饮食习惯到兵器情况。”

To date, around 100 artifacts have been unearthed at Jiankou, including architectural fragments, military equipment and domestic items. "These finds help us understand the Ming Dynasty soldiers' lives, from diet to weaponry," Shang Heng says.
He emphasizes the value of undisturbed ruins to archaeologists, as they provide a clearer picture of the past.
The philosophy behind restoration has also evolved. "The Great Wall is a cultural heritage site, blending the features of ancient architecture with those of an ancient ruin. We're now recognizing it more as an ancient ruin," Shang Heng says.

古长城的“隐藏彩蛋”，在考古学家的发掘下，逐渐显露。

尚珩指着一段敌台的窗口部分，那里隐约出现了一道笔直的红色痕迹：“通常大家都以为，长城是白色和藏蓝色的，但是这条红色的线让我们怀疑，是不是往上装窗户框子的时候，往上刷了油漆，蹭在了上面。”

他提到，技术团队还在做进一步分析，如果里面没有古代的溶剂残留物，就证明：“当年的明代长城，除了高大坚固，色泽也很鲜艳。”

“（长城考古）更多的是依据考古工作者对长城的认识，以及工作经验的判断，”尚珩说，“九百多米的墙，我们会选择有价值有意义的地方去发掘。”

目前，考古工作还正越来越数字化。

北京大学考古文博学院工程师、箭扣五期数字化技术负责人尚劲宇爬上正北楼顶，打开无人机开始拍摄资料，“我从第二期开始参与这个项目，那时候觉得（爬长城）很痛苦，后来做了几期，就习惯了。”

尚劲宇主要负责的是以无人机摄影测量、全景摄影等技术手段，构建不同时段的数字虚拟场景，这些成果将会存储在云端，共享给各方。

The project is making use of advanced technology and new techniques in an effort to maintain the wall's historical integrity. Shang Jinyu, the project's digital technology director, points to the use of drones for panoramic photography and data collection to create a model of the Jiankou Great Wall. The method permits the storage of data before and after restoration so that engineers and workers can determine whether or not the minimal intervention guidelines are being followed.
"Each drone image feeds into our archaeology program's system, allowing us to monitor the wall's condition and ensure minimal disturbance during restoration," Shang explains.

“我在北京修长城，很自豪”

长城，一般怎么修？

箭扣五期项目计划于2026 年完工。作为北京市怀柔区文物管理所长城修缮技术专家、箭扣五期施工技术负责人程永茂，早已总结出一套工作“顺口溜”：想要保证遗址长城的古色古香，就要“五随”原则：随层、随坡、随弯、随旧、随残，最大程度地保留“原汁原味”的遗址长城。

Restoration expert Cheng Yongmao speaks of his reverence for the original materials.
In order to ensure that the repaired sections reflect the original, the project is trying to minimize the use of modern materials. The bricks scattered around the site are picked up and reused.

图源：中国日报记者邹红

“遗址长城的修缮，目的在于延长长城生命，消除安全隐患，”程永茂说，“目前的修复有三大难点，用水难，材料运输难，施工难。”——骡子驮材料，不能踩踏长城，只能停在长城口（121敌楼），后来一段只能依靠人力搬运到各个施工点；选拔工匠也是一个难题，体力素质要求高，因此，大部分工匠来自河北承德山区，“要‘登山不发怵’，还要能负重。”

Restoring Jiankou remains challenging, with issues involving getting materials and water to the site. High-pressure water pumps and mules are used to mitigate these difficulties, with mules transporting supplies to a base camp to protect the wall from damage from their hooves. Workers then carry the materials up the steep slopes.
The demanding work requires physically fit workers, typically from mountainous regions like Chengde, Hebei province, who are accustomed to the terrain.

一名正在清理长城砖的工匠说：“外国人都知道，只有中国有长城，别的国家都没有。”

程永茂说，这支队伍工龄平均在10年以上，工期是4月到10月份，11月份，工匠们回到老家，和邻居老乡闲聊：“一问你在北京干嘛，回答说我在北京修长城，大家会非常羡慕，自己也会很自豪。”

Despite the arduous work, there's a sense of pride. The workers, who can only work on the wall from April to October due to the region's harsh winters, find respect upon returning home. "It's a matter of pride to say they've worked on the Great Wall," Cheng says.
"When they return home in November, they talk to their neighbors. They say, 'I was restoring the Great Wall in Beijing', and everyone admires them. Even though it is tiring and hard, they are still willing to do the job because they love what they do. It takes seriousness, dedication and responsibility to protect the Great Wall properly," he says.

“不到长城非好汉，没到箭扣都不算，”程永茂嘴角一撇，“箭扣的故事，那是说也说不完。”

共建长城

保护长城，从来都不只是一个人，或者一群人的事。

箭扣五期是继二期后，社会力量又一次共同参与保护修缮的合作案例。

“我以前也是驴友，喜欢爬长城，后来发现，长城总会有一些小改变，这些改变是不那么令人愉悦的——比如这里塌了，那里掉了，有裂缝了，有人在里面刻字了，就忽然意识到，你这么喜欢的东西，它正在发生一些你不喜欢的变化，你就想为它做一点什么。”长城小站志愿者团队创始人张俊分享了自己创立团队的初心，他总是会随时注意长城上的垃圾，随手将其拾起。