中国日报双语新闻

中国时装品牌之禾亮相巴黎时装周

3月5日,在巴黎时装周期间,中国时装品牌之禾在巴黎装饰艺术博物馆内精彩亮相,通过一场展示其工坊系列作品的时装秀,以及题为“之禾五色”的特别展览,呈现了其2026秋冬系列。

On March 5, during Paris Fashion Week, the Chinese fashion brand ICICLE made a striking appearance at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, presenting its Autumn/Winter 2026 collection through a fashion show featuring its Atelier collection, along with an exhibition titled An Exploration of the Five Colors — The ICICLE Spectrum.

极简却优雅且富有辨识度的服装,以利落的剪裁呈现,由来自不同文化背景的模特演绎,展现出中国哲学与法国精湛工艺的完美结合。

Minimalist yet elegant and distinctive garments, with clean cuts, presented by models from diverse cultural backgrounds, showcased a perfect combination of Chinese philosophy and French savoir-faire.

“中国美学思想塑造了我的设计方式:留白的价值、克制的智慧、不张扬之物的静谧尊严。这些理念——舒适、比例、得体感——构成了设计的底层架构。它们指导着缝线落下的位置,以及服装所不言说的部分。”之禾创意总监Bénédicte Laloux说道。

"Chinese aesthetic thinking shapes how I approach design: the value of emptiness, the intelligence of restraint, the quiet dignity of things that don't demand attention. These ideas — comfort, proportion, a sense of propriety — form the underlying architecture. They guide where a seam falls and what a garment does not say," said Bénédicte Laloux, creative director of ICICLE.

Laloux出生于法国并在巴黎生活了25年。她也热衷于重新诠释并玩味法式优雅与女性韵味的概念。“东方与西方相遇——法式优雅遇上对已有之物及大自然恩赐的敬意。”她补充道。

Laloux was born in France and has been living in Paris for the past 25 years. She also enjoys reinterpreting and playing with the notions of French chic and femininity. "East meets West — French elegance meets reverence for what already exists and what nature has bestowed upon us," she added.

之禾品牌由叶寿增与陶晓马于1997年在上海创立,其发展始终根植于“天人合一”的理念。“在国际市场上,这也是之禾的独特性之一。我们希望通过时装去诠释中国传统文化与哲学,对其进行一种‘当代化’的翻译,让其能够被当代人在日常生活中使用。”叶寿增说道。

Founded in Shanghai in 1997 by Ye Shouzeng and Tao Xiaoma, ICICLE's development in China has always been rooted in the concept of "the harmony between humanity and nature". "On the international market, this is also part of what makes ICICLE unique. We aim to use fashion to interpret China's traditional culture and philosophy, providing a 'contemporary' translation that allows these traditions to be incorporated into everyday life today," Ye said.

秉持这一理念,之禾采用羊绒、亚麻、羊毛、丝绸和棉等高品质天然纤维,创造适用于日常生活与工作的服装,并强调优雅、舒适、简约与功能性。

In this spirit, ICICLE uses noble natural fibers — such as cashmere, linen, wool, silk, and cotton — to create garments designed for everyday life and work, with an emphasis on elegance, comfort, simplicity and functionality.

现场展览则聚焦于中国的传统五色——白、青、黑、赤、黄。这些颜色源自五行体系(金、木、水、火、土)。

The on-site exhibition focused on the fundamental colors of Chinese tradition — white, blue-green, black, red and yellow — which derive from the system of the Five Elements (metal, wood, water, fire and earth).

之禾全球传讯总监 Victoria Marenzi 认为,这展示了古老的思想体系如何启发当代时尚设计。她说道:“两年前,我们通过品牌杂志开始引入这些理念;我们通过在前两个巴黎时装周上展示的系列作品,以及此次展览,进一步延展了这一叙事。对我们而言,颜色不仅仅是装饰,它是一种理解世界的方式。”

Victoria Marenzi, ICICLE's global communications director, believed this demonstrates how an ancient system of thought can inspire contemporary fashion design. She said: "We began introducing these ideas through our magazine two years ago, and over the past two seasons during Paris Fashion Week we have expanded that narrative through the collections and now with this exhibition. For us, color is not decoration, it is a way of understanding the world."

展览还展示了之禾与中国传统手工艺人的合作成果,包括“千层底” 与香云纱的搭配,以及侗布——这种纺织遗产由生活在中国西南贵州省的侗族女性世代传承。

The exhibition also showcased craft collaborations between ICICLE and traditional Chinese artisans, including the "thousand-layer sole" paired with canton gauze, as well as Dong Cloth, a textile heritage preserved by the Dong women living in Southwest China's Guizhou province.

目前,之禾在全球运营235家店铺,其中230家位于中国近110座城市。2013年,之禾巴黎设计中心成立,旨在借助巴黎这一窗口,吸纳欧洲资深时尚人才,并在店铺设计、品牌传播等方面积累全方位经验。

Currently, ICICLE operates 235 stores worldwide, including 230 in nearly 110 cities across China. In 2013, the ICICLE Paris Design Center was established, aiming to leverage the city as a window to Europe's experienced fashion talent, as well as to gain comprehensive expertise in areas such as store design and communications.

2018年,公司收购了创立于1945年的法国品牌卡纷(Carven)。2019年,之禾在巴黎乔治五世大道35号开设了全球旗舰店。2021年,之禾卡纷(ICCF)集团正式成立,总部设在巴黎。

In 2018, the company acquired the French brand Carven, founded in 1945. In 2019, ICICLE unveiled its global flagship store at 35 Avenue George V in Paris. In 2021, the ICCF Group — ICICLE Carven China France Group — was officially established and headquartered in Paris.

叶寿增表示:“我们带着中国的文化与自豪出海,同时也会入乡随俗。比如在法国,之禾的经营方式是法国式的,我们希望实现一种融入式的发展,绝不能成为一个异类。”目前,之禾与卡纷品牌在法国共雇有150名员工,而如今之禾的创意总监Laloux是之禾当年在巴黎招聘的第一位员工。

"We approach international development with Chinese culture and pride, while also adapting to local markets. For example, in France, ICICLE operates in a French way — we aim for an integrative approach and never want to be seen as an outsider," Ye said. Currently, ICICLE and Carven together employ 150 people in France, with Laloux, ICICLE's creative director, as the first employee ICICLE hired in Paris.

之禾结合法国工艺、中国与法国的协同设计、来自意大利、日本与中国的高品质面料,以及中国制造的规模与竞争优势,在国内与国际市场形成互补且互利的品牌优势。

ICICLE leverages French craftsmanship, collaborative design between China and France and high-quality fabrics from Italy, Japan and China, as well as the scale and competitive advantages of Chinese manufacturing, to create complementary and mutually beneficial strengths for the brand in both domestic and international markets.

在叶寿增看来,国内市场与海外市场具有同等战略重要性。未来几年,之禾计划开设更多海外门店。不过,鉴于其高端时尚定位,之禾选择直接进入对品质与设计有严苛要求的成熟市场。因此,欧洲成为之禾最主要的海外市场。除巴黎之外,品牌还计划进入伦敦、米兰以及一些其他欧洲重要城市。

For Ye, the domestic and overseas markets are of equal strategic importance. ICICLE plans to open more overseas stores in the coming years, but by taking its premium fashion positioning, ICICLE has chosen to enter mature markets directly, where quality and design are held to strict standards. Europe is therefore ICICLE's primary overseas market. Beyond Paris, the brand is also targeting London, Milan and other key European cities.

叶寿增补充道:“从长远来看,美国市场也在我们的规划之中,尽管当前的地缘政治环境与关税政策仍构成一定挑战。此外,我们也会考虑亚洲的邻国市场,比如日本。”他认为,日本是一个重要的市场机会,该国人口超过一亿,且拥有高度成熟的高端消费群体。

"In the long term, the US market is also part of our plan, although current geopolitical conditions and tariff policies remain a challenge. Additionally, we are considering neighboring Asian markets — for example, Japan," added Ye, who sees Japan as a significant opportunity, with a population of more than 100 million and a highly sophisticated high-end consumer base.

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